Kampong Glam: the quarter and its table

When the town plan of 1822 was drawn, Kampong Glam was set aside for Sultan Hussein Shah and the Malay-Muslim community. It has been the centre of Muslim life in the city ever since, named after the gelam tree that once grew here, and its old shophouses are still standing, with their colours and timber shutters.

The walk begins at the Sultan Mosque. Its history goes back to 1824; the present building, designed by Denis Santry, was completed in 1932 and named a National Monument in 1975. The prayer hall holds about 5,000 worshippers, and the golden dome closes the view down palm-lined Bussorah Street.

From there you walk along Arab Street, among textile, carpet and perfume shops, and down narrow Haji Lane, where old shophouses have become galleries, cafés and small boutiques. Your guide tells the story of a quarter that is still the centre of Muslim life in the city, where textile, carpet and religious-goods shops stand beside new restaurants and galleries.

The walk ends at the table: nasi padang and its many dishes at the halal-certified Hjh Maimunah, or murtabak, the Indian-Muslim bread filled with meat and egg. We plan the timing around prayers, when the mosque closes to visitors, and provide head coverings for ladies where needed.