Chiang Mai

Chiang Mai is the largest city of northern Thailand, about 700 km north of Bangkok and some 1 h 10 by air. King Mangrai founded it in 1296 as the capital of the Lanna kingdom; its name means 'new city'.

The old city is still ringed by a moat and the remains of red-brick walls, and holds old temples such as Wat Chiang Man, the city's oldest, Wat Phra Singh and Wat Chedi Luang. On Doi Suthep, 15 km away at 1,073 metres, Wat Phra That Doi Suthep looks over the whole city. UNESCO named Chiang Mai a Creative City of Crafts and Folk Art in 2017.

Nature surrounds it: Doi Inthanon, Thailand's highest peak at 2,565 metres; elephant sanctuaries where you watch and feed the animals rather than ride them; Karen villages on the lower slopes. Its kitchens are known for khao soi, a curry noodle soup believed to come from Chinese Muslim traders.

Chiang Mai is loveliest from November to February, when the air is cool and the mornings clear, and November brings the Yi Peng lantern festival. From February to April smoke from farm and forest fires gathers over the north, peaking in March, and we do not recommend travelling then.